Can you drywall over drywall

Newest Oldest. Rockin' Fine Finish 6 years ago. Related Discussions want to drywall over the fireplace Q. The insert is about 3. We want to put the TV on a cabinet on the floor probably in the corner where the antique dresser is now. That's where all the wiring is. We will turn the couch to face that corner and take out the bench it's there because that is the back door entrance and we sit on it to put shoes on, etc.

Have you ever covered drywall with another thin sheet of drywall to ha Q. Ive used a few methods for fastening. Generally just do normal screw coverage into stud.

If the walls are too uneven, construction adhesive wont contact. I like to mix durock 90 drywall compound in a bag and trowel it into vertical strips on the wall--enough to contact the uneven wall and the correctly positioned new drywall.

Place the new sheet and set it well into the compound, much like tile and mortar. Carefully screw where necessary to hold the panel flat and secure. Wait at least 20 min for the mud to set before installing remaining screws. If the old surface is strong for bonding, the durock will hold very well with minimal screws. It's not difficult. Just make sure to use armored cable to contain the wiring. Whether you put a groove in the wall, or build it out to shallowly conceal the conduit, NEC Neither is wiremold, which is what it looks like you have.

Let's not get overly politically correct. I don't have any type of clinical OCD, just the garden variety that we all suffer from from time to time. I don't think any reasonable person would be offended by Lindsey's use of OCD. Anyway, the original drywall work was done by the GC's sub. Then the GC sent his handymen for several days to try to fix the drywall issues.

And now he doesn't want to spend more money to fix it. Meanwhile I am trying to get this project finished asap. The GC probably underbid this contract and to make matters worse he agreed to do things that he is not familiar with. It has resulted in a lot of mistakes which he usually fixes when I catch them my fear is the ones I don't catch.

At this point he isn't making much money so he's trying to avoid spending any more money. But, end of the day he WILL cover the expense. To answer the other questions, the majority of the lighting will be led downlighting with some ceiling lights and a few spotlights aimed at wall decorations.

No sconces. Other than the bathrooms and gym the paint is flat. A lot of the problems are actually bad patches that were done by the original drywall company or the handymen that came after.

There are also some lines from the drywall tape and waves in the walls. I haven't taken any photos but I think the issues would be hard to see in photos. BuildEx 6 years ago. I would install sheetrock as it is less expensive than paneling i. Paneling will have some give in the walls between the studs as it is very thin, while the sheetrock will be more rigid. First of all, Shiplap can be more expensive than drywall.

It all depends on the materials used. Some shiplap materials used are also cheaper than drywall. While drywall is considerably less costly than some shiplap materials, there may be many reasons why you should consider the later. Like drywall , many types of wood paneling come in 4' x 8' panels.

That means you should have seams with finishing nails along every third stud. You could try carefully popping out a few nails in the middle of a panel to see what's behind it. If you're careful enough, you can just tap the nails back in when you're done. Whether you need to create privacy, conceal damage, block light or add wall space, it is possible to permanently cover a window in a way that no one will know that a window was ever there.

Cover your window using methods adopted from drywall installation. Spread a coat of mud on uneven seams from which you haven't removed any tape with the drywall knife. Scrape the mud flat with the knife. Let the first coat of mud dry overnight, then recoat all the areas you are repairing. Because replacing a lath and plaster wall with drywall will involve a lot of time, money, dust, and debris, the most practical option is to replace it only when necessary. Fortunately, minor issues with lath and plaster walls are repairable, and even doable by DIY work.

If you're remodeling an older home and you run into a plaster-and- lath wall, you can remove the plaster and install drywall over the laths. After securing the laths , you'll install the panels in the same way you would install them on a new stud wall. Push a thumbtack or pin into the wall in an inconspicuous spot to test its hardness. Drywall is softer and won't crack. Plaster is much harder. A plaster wall won't want to take the pin and will probably splinter.

A typical 12x12 room, for example, will use 12 panels. Can you put drywall over existing drywall? But be sure not to create air bubbles beneath the tape.

Lightly sand the surface after each coat has completely dried. For screw holes, apply a dab of compound to cover the holes, and then use the straight edge of the knife to scrape away any excess. For inside corners, Davis recommends using a special corner bead tape. This tape is manufactured with two lightweight metal strips that run the length of the tape. These strips add stability to the drywall and provide a straight, uniform angle. Cut a strip of corner bead tape to length.

Fold the tape down the middle, between the strips, to wrap the corner. Folding the tape also stiffens it into a rigid piece. Apply a thin undercoat of compound, as with the paper tape, and press the corner bead into the corner of the drywall. The tape should be installed with the metal strips facing toward the drywall.

Next, run the knife over both sides of the corner bead to squeeze out excess compound from beneath the tape but not too much. Apply a thin topcoat to one side of the corner bead, completely covering the tape on that side of the corner. If you try to mud both sides of the corner, the second side you mud will pull the other side of the tape out of the compound and you have to start over. On outside corners, use a rigid metal corner bead for additional strength along the protruding corner seam, covering it with compound just like the inside corners.

When mudding any seam, apply thin coats and feather the compound outward. Drying time depends on air-moisture conditions, thickness of the coat and other factors. Heating the room will quicken the drying time. After the first coat dries, scrape away any dried chips or smudges and sand the surface smooth.

It may help to thin the second coat of compound with a little water before applying. Each coat should be thinner than the last. Adding water to the mixing bucket also helps to smooth out any lumps in the compound. Gradually add successive coats, feathering the compound. Any visible ridge can be sanded down later. With the successive coats, use broader putty knives for a smoother finish.

Before painting or papering the new drywall, sand the final coat smooth. A moist sponge will also help remove drywall dust from the surface. A coat of primer-sealer is required to seal new drywall and compound. This also helps blend the joint compound into the drywall for a painted surface that appears fluid and uniform.